Addendum Kit 10 "Engine".
By Rick Stoeber

September 2, 2006

The correct piston rods arrive. I dismantled my valve train and piston/crosshead assembly. Reread kit 10 assembly instructions and start assembly again for real. Fit piston rings to the pistons; make sure the rings will roll into the grooves without any binding. I had to use 600 grit sand paper on a clip board (flat surface) and narrow the width of the rings, sand in a figure 8 pattern so as to keep the ring surface even all around, remove material on both sides just enough for the rings to roll around the piston groove with out binding. Clean both ring and piston and install on piston. The rings should compress easily without binding. Note: if the rings bind they won't seat inside the cylinder properly. Rotate the ring splits at 180 degrees from each other. Install the piston/crosshead assemblies as described in Kit 10- Part 5, using the Hylomar on the cylinder cover and Loctite the bolts. ( Hylomar is a Permatex product available through your NAPA dealer, part # 765-2682.
2.5 Hours

September 4

Dismantle the steam chests and apply Hylomar on the cylinder surface only and secure with the flat washers and nuts, leave the cover off, this is to seal the chest to the cylinder.
Covers will be permanently installed after valve timing and adjustment.
Install connecting rods and adjust crosshead/ piston clearance as explained in Part 6. Loctite crosshead grub screw after double checking clearances.
I went one step further with checking clearances. I performed a cylinder head to piston clearance check (as the piston rod did protrude slightly further than the piston top). With the piston at top dead center put a small ball of clay on the center of the piston and installed the cylinder cap, remove the cap and measure the thickness of the clay, I had about 1.5mm - 2mm. If the piston hits the cap, remeasure the piston as described in Part 6. If incorrect then you will have to remove the rod material on the very top so clearance is achieved.
Install the water pumps and adjust as described in Part 7. The flat washers were not included in the kit, these are 3/8 flats, I just went to the parts house so I could continue the build. Tightening the pump rod nuts is not easy, be patient, a regular wrench will not fit, improvise, I ended up using a long nose vise grip and a stub nose grip and was able to tighten the top nut by 1/8 turn at a time. I did put a drop of Loctite on the threads before running up the nuts. I shortened the short end of a 5mm Allen key to fit the cap screws holding on the rod bracket to the crosshead.
2.0 Hours

September 5

Assemble the valve gear with the new reversing arms as described in Part 8. Make sure to oil all the needle bearings. I'm still missing the counter sunk bolts to retain the LK0942 rod, so I used 2 M5x80x20 bolts with the flat washer for the time being. After all the valve gear is assembled and looks correct I Loctited the retaining screws.
Install the motor mounts and engine into the chassis, the motor mounts will require a little persuasion but will flex enough to slide through the mounting holes.
4.0 Hours

The piston rods did not come with Kit 12 as promised, once ModelWorks realized this oversight, they sent out the new rods. The new reversing arms were included. There were several pieces of hardware that were missing, but ModelWorks has sent the missing pieces.
The engine went together as described and the fit and quality is outstanding.

Happy Building,

Rick